Preparations:
All the preparations for the arrival of the puppy have been made. A cozy bed, a Y-harness and a 3-meter leash, stainless steel food and water bowls, stuffed animals and toys, chews, food, and treats – everything is ready for your new family member. You and your family have read the necessary books. The house and garden are entirely puppy-proofed. You’ve chosen a dog school. You’ve scheduled several months to dedicate to your puppy’s upbringing. You’re all set to begin life with your new puppy. Finally, the moment arrives to pick up your puppy. For the breeder, this is a difficult moment, but for you, it’s a moment you have been looking forward to. In the weeks before the puppy’s arrival, you’ve had a chance to get to know each other a bit at the breeder’s, making the transition smoother for both of you. Despite these preparations, the change will be significant for the puppy: new caregivers, a new environment without the mother, aunt, and littermates, and possibly new pets. Give the puppy time to adjust to all these new experiences.
Introduction:
On the way home, you can hold the puppy on your lap in the car. When you arrive home, let the puppy explore the garden, living room, and the place where he will sleep at his own pace. It’s helpful if children sit quietly on the floor and wait for the puppy to approach them. Keep other pets in a separate area initially. Once the puppy is somewhat accustomed to the new environment and family, and if you have another dog, introduce them on neutral ground outside where there are no other dogs. Stay calm and let the dogs approach each other at their own pace. If the puppy or the other dog seems overwhelmed, increase the distance. If all goes well, it’s time to go home and let the dogs interact in the house and garden, provided they remain calm around each other. A puppy pen or gate can be useful for occasionally separating the dogs. This is handy when the puppy needs rest, or when other pets or children need a break, or if you can’t closely supervise the puppy. Make the pen an enjoyable place with water, toys, and a comfortable resting spot.
If the introduction doesn’t go as expected, contact the breeder immediately for advice and support.
House Training:
A puppy needs to urinate frequently and defecate regularly. Take the puppy out every two hours (or more often if needed), and always immediately after eating, playing, and sleeping. Choose a quiet spot near your home with minimal distractions. While it can be practical to let the puppy urinate in the garden, not everyone has a garden or prefers this. Avoid turning potty breaks into long walks. If you need to cover a distance before reaching the designated potty spot, carry the puppy to that spot. Some puppies quickly become house-trained and will rarely have accidents indoors if the caregiver is attentive, but for others, it may take up to six months or longer.
The Nights:
The first nights can be challenging for the puppy as he’s not used to sleeping without his mother and littermates. Let the puppy sleep near you. The easiest way is to bring the puppy to your bedroom, but you can also sleep next to the puppy downstairs. The first nights, it can be comforting for the puppy to sleep close to you or in a basket next to your bed. This way, you’ll notice immediately when the puppy needs you or needs to go out at night. This helps build a strong bond quickly, aids in house training, and allows you to fully enjoy your new family member. When you feel the puppy is ready to sleep alone downstairs, you can make that transition, but keeping the puppy in the bedroom as long as he’s light enough to carry upstairs can also be very comforting.
The breeder will appreciate hearing how the first day and night went.
The First Week:
The first week will be focused on getting used to the puppy and the puppy to you in a calm manner. Postpone puppy visits and avoid going out in the first few days. The house, garden, and immediate surroundings are sufficient for now. Visit the veterinarian during the first week for a check-up and to introduce the puppy to the vet (there’s no need for vaccinations, deworming, or flea/tick treatment at this stage). Let the puppy get accustomed to the Doggyride if you plan to use it. Initially, place it on the ground without wheels and open, occasionally placing treats inside. Once the puppy is comfortable, attach the wheels, and ensure it’s securely braked before placing the puppy inside. If the puppy handles this well with a distraction, you can try gentle movements, first indoors, then outdoors, gradually increasing the duration. Follow the puppy’s pace. Early exercises can include walking on a loose leash and recall training.
Socialization and Habituation:
Introducing your puppy to the world is crucial, but ensure all experiences are positive and stress-free. The puppy doesn’t need to experience everything by four months old. Start with short, manageable outings and gradually introduce more complex environments. The first outing could be to a quiet new park, carrying the puppy or using the Doggyride if accustomed. If the first outing goes well and the puppy isn’t overwhelmed or overstimulated (signs include hyperactivity, lack of sleep, or increased biting), you can gradually introduce slightly more challenging situations. Visit a quiet pet store on a less busy morning, initially carrying the puppy. After a few days, return and let the puppy explore on his own for a short time. If the puppy becomes overstimulated or scared, calmly pick him up and leave. Repeat the exposure regularly, gradually increasing the difficulty and duration, ensuring each outing remains positive and balanced with plenty of rest days in between. Introduce the puppy to well-behaved adult dogs, children who are calm around puppies, various adults, and different animals like chickens, goats, cows, and horses. Continue these exposures even as the puppy matures into an adult dog.
Activities:
Activities that don’t overstimulate the puppy are ideal, especially in the early weeks. Licking a Lickimat or Kong, chewing on a safe chew, massaging, digging, and sniffing are all excellent for keeping the puppy relaxed. A sensory activity such as placing safe, edible items (e.g., berries, a small dab of peanut butter, a piece of salmon, a mint leaf, an apple slice) in a silicone cupcake tray and allowing the puppy to explore can be very engaging. Ensure the tray is on a non-slip surface and supervise the puppy. Afterward, exchange the tray for a treat if the puppy still shows interest in it. Many similar activities can be devised, such as scattering kibble in the grass or on a snuffle mat, creating an enriched environment with various scents and objects, or using an activity box.
Puppies naturally tend to stay close to you, making early recall training effective. The breeder may have already started with recall whistle training. Continue this in a safe area, such as a garden. Run a short distance away and whistle when you’re sure the puppy will run to you. Reward generously when the puppy reaches you. Make it a fun game. Rewards for recall can also include a favorite toy for a tug-of-war game. Once recall is consistent, increase the difficulty by adding distractions before whistling and rewarding success. Change environments, initially making it easier before gradually increasing the challenge again.
Alongside recall, walking on a loose leash is another essential skill to start early. The breeder has likely begun leash and harness acclimatization. Use a 3-meter, 5-meter, or 10-meter leash with a Y-harness to minimize strain on the puppy’s body. In the beginning, allow the puppy to explore within the safety limits while keeping the leash loose. Occasionally guide the puppy in the right direction and reward spontaneous contact with you. Puppies don’t know what’s expected and want to explore, so keep initial expectations low. Meanwhile, at home, teach a sound that signals “walk with me,” as described in the book “Help, My Dog Pulls” by Turid Rugaas. A puppy should only walk for a few minutes per week of age each day. For example, a 10-week-old puppy should walk for 10 minutes a day. As they grow stronger and heavier, they can walk longer. Golden Retrievers grow into large, strong dogs, and it’s crucial to prevent them from pulling on the leash. Start this training from the beginning.
Retrieving and Swimming:
From a young age, you can begin to harness a Golden Retriever’s natural retrieving instinct. Some puppies naturally carry items around. Reward the puppy when he brings an item to you, then place it down enthusiastically a bit further away. If the puppy doesn’t naturally pick up items, use a clicker to teach retrieving. Avoid using tennis balls or sticks, which can be hazardous. Retrieving is a fun activity and should not be confused with ball throwing using a launcher, which can cause stress and physical harm.
Swimming is another activity suited for Golden Retrievers. Most will love it. Regularly visit safe swimming spots, allowing the puppy to explore water at his own pace without forcing him in. Walk through the water yourself and play around the water’s edge. Bringing along a dog that loves water can help your puppy feel more comfortable and enjoy the experience.
Puppy Courses and Training:
After 1 or 2 weeks at home, consider enrolling in a good puppy course at a dog school. A gundog puppy course is recommended as it helps the dog use his talents. Puppy gym (balance and coordination) is also beneficial from a young age, supporting physical development during rapid growth. There are also general courses on understanding and guiding puppies. Choose something that suits you and your dog. Ensure the dog school uses positive reinforcement; punishment is unnecessary and harmful to your relationship with your dog and his well-being.
In the first few weeks, avoid teaching exercises like “sit” or “down/lie down.” These exercises are easy to learn and there is no rush to teach them, but they can physically strain young dogs. Once you have taught these exercises, do not make your dog sit unnecessarily, especially in the first 18 months when their body is developing rapidly. Keep practice sessions short and aim for success by not making things too difficult too quickly. Prioritize foundational skills, relationship building, and ensuring experiences are fun and rewarding for both of you. Training should always be positive, emphasizing learning through play and rewards, ensuring the puppy enjoys the process and builds confidence in you and the world around him.
Sleeping:
Puppies need a lot of sleep (about 20 hours a day), and they sleep best when they are relaxed and not overstimulated. A calm home environment and comfortable places to sleep can help. Observe what your puppy needs to sleep adequately, allowing them to grow physically, mentally unwind, and process everything they experience.
Biting:
Biting is a normal part of puppyhood. Puppies explore the world with their mouths, which have very sharp teeth. Put away items that shouldn’t be chewed on and provide plenty of safe chewing alternatives. This way, they can safely explore with their mouths and learn to be gentle with their teeth. If the puppy bites your hand too hard, stop what you are doing and increase the distance between you and the puppy. Persistent biting at hands, legs, or clothing often indicates an overstimulated puppy (though boredom can also be a cause). Ensure the puppy gets enough rest, sleep, and relaxation, perhaps by giving them something to chew on in a calm environment, free from distractions like playing children. Around 12 weeks, puppies start teething, often increasing their need to chew. Giving them something cold to chew on can help. Temporarily stop fetch or tug games if these activities seem to bother the puppy. By around 6 months, the teething phase ends, and the sharp puppy teeth are replaced by their strong adult teeth.
Being Alone:
In the first weeks, the puppy is adjusting to the new situation: the new environment, new caregivers, and being without littermates. It’s helpful if someone is with the puppy 24/7 during the first week, building a relationship and ensuring the puppy feels as safe as possible. It’s crucial for your dog to learn to be alone for a few hours. Most dogs can handle being alone for up to 4 hours, but this should be built up gradually. Once the puppy is somewhat accustomed to the new life, start working on their independence. Let the puppy lick a Kong while you are in the next room with the door open. Gradually increase the time and difficulty (starting with the door open, then closed, then moving to another floor or going outside). Keep in mind that your puppy should not be left alone for long periods, especially in the first six months.
Tips for Being Alone: take the dog out before leaving and ensure they are tired and satisfied (for example, through a sniffing game) but not overstimulated. Provide something safe to chew or lick before you leave. Use a camera to monitor the puppy, so you know how they behave while alone and can respond appropriately. If you need to leave the house without having sufficiently built up the puppy’s ability to be alone, arrange for a good sitter or host family. This is also a good solution for adult dogs.
